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Post by Bismuth Dirigible on Oct 7, 2004 20:31:22 GMT
I was wondering if anyone was interested in discussing any tips or tricks that they have discovered during their experiences casting metal figures.
What temperatures and alloys produce the best results, etc.
At what temperature do the Prince August molds start to melt/get damaged?
Prince August was the first vulcanized rubber molds I ever poured. Prior to that I had only used metal molds.
I can remember when I first got my PA molds I was very concerned about burning them out. Even at lower temperatures you often get a slight burning rubber smell on your first couple of pours.
To this day I am not sure what the upper temperature limit is for these molds, but I suspect that it is around 750 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit.
Also what is the most pours that anyone has gotten off of a single mold? I know that PA says about 1000, but has anyone actually poured that many?
The most used PA mold I have is 80-1A (marching) which I have cast about 200 times. There are some (very) slight signs of scorching in the sprue, but I can see no discernable difference between the latest figures I’ve cast with it, and the first.
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Post by Prince August on Oct 8, 2004 20:05:27 GMT
I was wondering if anyone was interested in discussing any tips or tricks that they have discovered during their experiences casting metal figures. What temperatures and alloys produce the best results, etc. At what temperature do the Prince August molds start to melt/get damaged? Prince August was the first vulcanized rubber molds I ever poured. Prior to that I had only used metal molds. I can remember when I first got my PA molds I was very concerned about burning them out. Even at lower temperatures you often get a slight burning rubber smell on your first couple of pours. To this day I am not sure what the upper temperature limit is for these molds, but I suspect that it is around 750 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit. Also what is the most pours that anyone has gotten off of a single mold? I know that PA says about 1000, but has anyone actually poured that many? The most used PA mold I have is 80-1A (marching) which I have cast about 200 times. There are some (very) slight signs of scorching in the sprue, but I can see no discernable difference between the latest figures I’ve cast with it, and the first. We do have a page about metal temps www.princeaugust.ie/alloys/index.html |
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Post by Bismuth Dirigible on Oct 12, 2004 15:12:49 GMT
Hey your Highness, ;-)
That page was very interesting. I was surprised by (what I would consider) the low casting temperatures recommended.
I think the max was about 600 degrees F.
What is the highest temperature you would recommend I could safely cast without prematurely wearing out the mold?
At what point do vulcanized rubber molds start to melt? What’s the hottest pour you have ever done yourself, or heard of from a customer?
That’s not something I ever had to worry about with metal molds.
But don’t get me wrong … I like the rubber molds much, much better.
Just out of curiosity do you still cast figures yourself?
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Post by Bismuth Dirigible on Nov 8, 2004 16:48:34 GMT
HAS anyone else had trouble casting the band instruments for the Traditional toy soldier line?
I have had a fair amount of difficulty getting these to come out, and there doesn’t seem to be any easy way to vent them, which is what I normally do when I have problems with a mold.
As it stands, I have increased the tin content of my mix, and I have upped the casting temperature, but I am still only getting good casts about 50% of the time.
Any suggestions???
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carl
PA Lieutenant
Posts: 84
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Post by carl on Apr 30, 2006 20:49:36 GMT
I'm new to this rubber mould stuff so I really like posts like these that explain what to do with the rubbery type moulds. I have in the past only used metal moulds. I recently purchased 5 chess set moulds and several separate moulds from the Prince August Representative here in the USA. I would have bought direct from Prince August but that URO stuff scares me. Don't know how much anything would cost in our money. the thing is I still haven't tried any of them. I keep saying I'll read lots of stuff here first so if I set the house on fire or something, I'll blame all of you.
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Post by bigjohn on May 4, 2008 17:27:16 GMT
I have most of the 800 series molds, and have just started using them. I am having some trouble
"fitting" the heads and arms to the bodies prior to "super-glueing" them. I have done a lot of filing on these smaller parts, and I am wondering if anyone has ever tried enlarging the holes by drilling the recieving holes in the bodies.
Could this problem be caused by my lead being too hot or not hot enough when pouring? I am looking at about 50 headless bodies now, and am very tired of filing....anyone have any suggestions?
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Post by Christopher on May 5, 2008 20:35:55 GMT
Hello Big John
Drilling something from the fuselage. Drill a hole in the neck of the head.
Connect the torso and the neck with a wire. This keeps it better. Glueing head and torso with two-component adhesive. Then join the slots with Milliput or Magicsculp. The arms Glueing and then born. A wire pen with two-component adhesive and also close.
Yours greeting Christopher
P.S. Any questions? Then register.
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General Davout
PA Lieutenant
Stop dreaming after a quiet life ....
Posts: 82 
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Post by General Davout on May 24, 2008 22:37:34 GMT
I see modelmetal is still expensive, will the price be coming down any time soon do you think?
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Post by Christopher on Oct 30, 2009 18:11:41 GMT
Hello together. Is there anybody here, where figures of soldiers can be completely rebuilt? Let's talk about it. With Kind regards, Christopher See also my homepage, WWW.Hobbyzinnfiguren.de |
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Post by luftys on Dec 8, 2009 22:21:50 GMT
Great figures on your site Christopher,they must take u a long time to paint
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Post by Christopher on Dec 20, 2009 10:43:00 GMT
Hello
It's a lot of fun to rebuild these figures and painting.
Of course, much work is behind it, but I think it's worth it.
Regards Christopher
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