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Post by darius on Dec 17, 2007 14:10:15 GMT
i would by metal from your website but i dont have a bank acount or a credit card.what if i would mix in more lead than tin will the quality of miniatures going to become bad?
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Post by darius on Dec 17, 2007 14:22:16 GMT
is the 40% Tin/60% Lead is soldering metal?is it good for castin and how does the miniatures made from this metal look?
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Post by darius on Dec 17, 2007 16:42:08 GMT
i surfed the net a bit more and found that i can get 63 tin 37 lead soldering metal can you tell me on what kind of temperature does it melt?
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Post by Prince August on Dec 18, 2007 11:21:53 GMT
i surfed the net a bit more and found that i can get 63 tin 37 lead soldering metal can you tell me on what kind of temperature does it melt? It would be about the same as our Casting STANDARD metal. It should cast OK, but will take longer to cool than our MODEL metal as it does not contain bismuth. Bismuth lowers the melting point of metal dramatically.
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Post by darius on Dec 18, 2007 14:18:58 GMT
does it mean that the metal will stay liquid for longer ?
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Post by Prince August on Dec 20, 2007 10:18:39 GMT
does it mean that the metal will stay liquid for longer ? No. It will remain HOT for longer. It takes only a small heat loss to convert liquid lead/tin mix to a solid. But it will take (at least) twice as long for the hot metal to cool enough to remove from the mould and then handle. This is because it needs about 120 C more heat to be able to cast than Model Metal. I can cast in Model Metal in 5 minutes. It can take 10 to 12 minutes at least to cast in Standard Metal. Larger figures take longer to cool as there is more metal involved.
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Post by shapeshifter878 on May 13, 2011 8:38:53 GMT
Hi all, I´ve been casting some Fantasy 25 mm lately, using Model Metal. The moulds I´ve been using are nr 690( www.princeaugust.ie/690/index.html) and nr 685( www.princeaugust.ie/685/index.html). The 690 mould works ok, but the cloth hanging between their legs and the bases are often slightly incomplete. With the 685 mould the metal is not filling in the following places: Figure A(to the left): Shield. Figure B(middle): The foot above the ground. Figure C(right): Shield and sword. Some slightly incomplete bases happen here too. I´ve followed the casting instructions in the video tutorial here on the site and I´ve been experimenting with hotter/colder metal but it doesn´t seem to help. Is it time to do some venting? I´m also wondering what kind of figures are best suitable for the 5 star metal. I tried it on the orcs above but the details did not turn out as good as with the Model Metal.
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Post by Prince August on Jul 8, 2011 11:19:39 GMT
Hi all, I´ve been casting some Fantasy 25 mm lately, using Model Metal. The moulds I´ve been using are nr 690( www.princeaugust.ie/690/index.html) and nr 685( www.princeaugust.ie/685/index.html). The 690 mould works ok, but the cloth hanging between their legs and the bases are often slightly incomplete. With the 685 mould the metal is not filling in the following places: Figure A(to the left): Shield. Figure B(middle): The foot above the ground. Figure C(right): Shield and sword. Some slightly incomplete bases happen here too. I´ve followed the casting instructions in the video tutorial here on the site and I´ve been experimenting with hotter/colder metal but it doesn´t seem to help. Is it time to do some venting? I´m also wondering what kind of figures are best suitable for the 5 star metal. I tried it on the orcs above but the details did not turn out as good as with the Model Metal. 5 Star metal will not cast as easily or give as much detail as Model Metal, simply because of its composition. While some moulds will cast more successfully than others, especially some of the newer moulds, you will always get a better result from Model Metal. The weight of the lead content is vital for the drop casting process. As far as venting is concerned. Check out my video on the process and try it out. I am sure that it will resolve any problems. www.princeaugust.ie/video-guides/index.html#video10
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Post by howardgrubb on Sept 19, 2018 10:41:10 GMT
I have recently started back making toy soldiers with your moulds.However my family were very concerned about the melting of lead in the kitche...I would like to know how dangerous or how safe is the metal bar you supply. Thanks for any reassurance...
Antony Howard-Grubb
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Post by Prince August on Sept 20, 2018 9:12:59 GMT
I have recently started back making toy soldiers with your moulds.However my family were very concerned about the melting of lead in the kitche...I would like to know how dangerous or how safe is the metal bar you supply. Thanks for any reassurance... Antony Howard-Grubb If you are concerned with using lead then try our 5 Star Pewter metal instead. It is completely free of lead. It is mostly Tin with some Zinc and Antimony. It is a bit lighter and takes a little more heat to make it ready for casting but the results are similar. Our Solder Pot is ideal for using it. Our model metal and casting metal are alloys and are not pure lead. We don't use pure lead for our moulds as the castings would be brittle. Our metal content is displayed on the product pages themselves. As long as you wash your hands before eating and cast in a ventillated area you will be fine with our metal (i.e. open some windows). Lead is dangerous if consumed so just wash your hands before eating. If you smoke then wash your hands first too as you may accidently absorb some lead by handling the cigarette and then inhaling it when lite. If you are concerned about using your kitchen for casting, then either a portable hotplate or our solder pot is a good solution as it frees you from that area.
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