Which Metal to buy?

[Prince August]

Well if you want to handle the cast pieces a lot then choose a non lead metal like our 5 star bars. If you are painting or varnishing them then that is not a worry.
Model Metal is easiest to cast but not as strong as 5 star, but 5 star is harder to cast (not much harder but it takes practice.). Standard metal is cheapest.

[Wittymonkey]

HI,

Your metal is still pretty expensive. 30 euros/1.25 kilos +shipping (and shipping is EXPENSIVE as it is heavy...)

I was buying metal 50/50 lead/tin from an other web site, and it costs 4$/ half pound bar (+shipping) (which means 10$/1.25 kilo which is around 3 TIMES CHEAPER ) , and they have price reductions when you go higher. It is perfectly working for the molding. However this site was in USA.

Do you know any source of cheaper metal in France ? This would allow me of course to buy way more moulds than I did and would greatly contribute to my overall hapiness

Thanks.

[Wittymonkey]

Sorry, in fact it was 6.5$/ half pound bar My mistake , but is still about 3 times cheaper

[Wittymonkey]

Sorry again, It's 6.5$/per pound in fact, I defenetevely need glasses
I was thinking 0.5 kilos = 1 pound and wrote .5 pounds

[luftys]

I use Lead mixed with plumers solder,the lead I get free from mates,but only use old lead as I find it better

[Gungnir]

I only use reclaimed lead. The drawback is the higher temperature, which will burn out a mould sooner than lower melting metals. However, I have used some of my moulds over 120 times, so even if I had to replace it now, which still is not necessary, I would have earned that money back via low costs of lead several times over already.

[luftys]

The moulds do get hot,you just have to be carefull,I cast about 4 moulds at a time,if they get too hot just take a break and let them cool down,that when I cast moulds for spare parts cut off wat I need and melt the rest

[frank]

what mix of solder to old lead do you recommend

luftys said:

I use Lead mixed with plumers solder,the lead I get free from mates,but only use old lead as I find it better

[luftys]

Guest-frank said:

what mix of solder to old lead do you recommend

I use a 25% solder mix,but if I am making a main body then just use pure lead,save the mix for small bits like guns,heads ect

[Frank S]

I buy Tin from a local scrap metal dealer for about $3.00 (U.S.)/lb.

All my lead I get for free from Tire and brakes shops. I just ask for the old wheel weighs. There are at least 3 such places within 10 miles of where I work. Typically I go about once a month. The other day I got over 30 lbs. of free lead from 2 garages. I didn’t even stop at my 3rd place because the container I had with me was full.

For casting I use an alloy of 70% to 75% lead and 25% to 30% tin.

I’ve considering adding some bismuth to the mix, but that would run me about $8.00/lb, and since I am very happy with the quality of the castings I’ve been getting I’m not sure it would be worth the extra expense?

[acecsr]

Hello.

I use a 50/50 Lead/Tin alloy I buy in plumber's shops to cast straight. This come in bars of about 30 cm and around 300 gr. I sometimes add bismuth (up to 30%), which expands when it cools down and helps get more detail. Also I add to the alloy some antimony to lower the fusion point.

If anyone speaks spanish, you can find two articles on casting aloys on my miniature modelers association's page at:

Asociación de Miniaturistas Militares 2 de Mayo
www.amm2m.tk
-> Click on "Información" on the left side menu

-> At the bottom of the page you'll find articles "ALEACIONES PARA FUNDICIÓN " and "ALEACIONES PARA FUNDICIÓN II" on casting alloys and also "TÉCNICAS DE SOLDADURA " on soldering techniques, all by a friend of mine.

Carlos.

[Bacas]

Hi, everyone.
I am using an alloy, 95%tin, 3%copper and 2%Anthimony, wich can be brought to a blinding shining glow, if hardly buffed.
It is very hard, and I think it is just great for pieces that are supposed to be handled, like the chess sets.
In Portugal, it sells for about 10€ a Kg.
The only problem is that it, sometimes becomes very difficult to obtain good results, but beeing persistent, they will come out.
Enjoy

[carl]

Hi All. I'm new to this forum but have been making lead soldiers for about 50 to 60 years now. I like the idea of the lead weights used to balance tires. I'll have to try a few places for some of that lead. I use only junk lead with no idea of what it is composed of. It has been mixed together for many, many years. Most of it comes from our local gun shooting range. When I first melt it there is a lot of smoke at first from unburned gun powder and lots of sediment and floating junk from the bullet jacketing but the price is right, free. Since I go to this one range about once a month they know me and give me as much lead as I want. I also occumulate lots of empty shells for trading. I've always wondered why some of my lead figures are so shinny and some are so dull and this forums info about the different lead mixtures now makes that clear.

[carl]

Just one more thing. I was reminded that a lot of my lead came from bartenders in bars, lounges, taverns where they would save the top wrappings of bottles of wine. This used to be lead with writting on it. When melted the printing would catch on fire and smell horrible but then left with more lead.

[General Davout]

I've just left a posting else where highlighting that 5 star metal is lighter in weight than model metal and this helps to offset the cost as shipping is cheaper.Only discovered this as I'm casting Christmas decorations with the kids and their painting them too.